Ultimate Axolotl Care Guide for Happy Pets

When I first began my journey into owning an exotic pet, the Axolotl—scientifically called Ambystoma mexicanum—immediately captured my attention. This aquatic salamander species is native to the lakes of Xochimilco and Chalco in Mexico, where it once thrived in the natural habitat of the valley region.

Sadly, due to pollution and expanding human population, it is now critically endangered and listed by the IUCN Red List as a Threatened Species, nearly extinct in the wild. Yet, their neotenic nature—the ability to retain larval features such as feathery gills and finned tails throughout life—makes them truly fascinating.

Unlike other amphibian creatures that undergo metamorphosis to live on land, axolotls remain water-dwelling, embracing a unique lifestyle that keeps them fully aquatic. Their wide heads, various colors, and diverse morphs give them distinctive characteristics that make them both beautiful and unusual.

In my experience, observing an axolotl swim gracefully near the bottom among mud, plants, and shallow shores, hunting tiny worms, slugs, and insects, feels like watching a hidden world unfold. Their limited eyesight pushes them to rely on a strong sense of movement, enabling them to inhale their prey in a quick, natural motion.

Beyond their appearance, these animals possess remarkable powers to regenerate lost limbs, even parts of the heart and brain, which has made them invaluable to medical studies and cancer research. However, caring for them as pets is not easy. Their tanks must have cold water, often maintained with a chiller, and require weekly changes to remove waste manually—sometimes using a turkey baster.

They must be fed carefully with appropriate food, and close attention should be given to prevent illness. A well-kept axolotl can have a lifespan of up to fifteen years, but that comes with true responsibility. This guide serves as a helping hand for anyone learning the basics of providing a good home to this Mexican walking fish, ensuring their long, happy lives in our care.

Stages of Life

From my experience caring for axolotls, I’ve noticed their lifespan can be quite fascinating. On average, an adult can live for approximately 10 years, though some dedicated keepers have shared reports of their axolotls living up to 15 years or even older.

Watching them grow is one of the most rewarding parts of keeping these creatures—when they reach full size, they measure around 23-30 cm or about 9-10 inches long. Their lifespan and growth depend a lot on the care you give—clean water, a stable temperature, and a stress-free environment make all the difference.

Mini and Dwarf Axolotls

In my years of keeping axolotls, I’ve noticed that not all of them reach the average size. Some stay small and are lovingly called minis, often measuring around 15 cm or about 6 inches when fully grown. These minis usually have proportional bodies, though sometimes a stunted body can appear due to malnutrition or poor living conditions.

On the other hand, dwarf axolotls look quite different — their bodies are often disproportional, which can be identified even at a young age by their short, round torso and curvy tail. This deformity is not caused by care but by genetic factors beyond control.

Understanding How to Determine Sex

When I started caring for axolotls, I discovered that you cannot definitively sex them when they’re young. It usually takes about 12 to 18 months of age before you can determine their sex, as every axolotl develops at a different rate. There isn’t a set range, so patience matters.

You must read a detailed article, “How to Determine the Sex of an Axolotl,” and this information will help you understand that each one grows uniquely, making it both a challenge and a joy to learn.

Identifying a Male Axolotl

From my experience raising axolotls, I’ve learned that the average age to identify a male is around 12 months, though some can be identified as early as 5 months or as late as 18 months, depending on how they develop an enlarged cloaca. In some uncommon cases, an axolotl may start becoming visibly mature sooner, while others are bloomers who take longer to present clear signs.

A visible, protruding bump behind the back legs usually marks the male, and they typically have slimmer body shapes with longer tails. One way to differentiate a male and female is to note that the cloaca bulges slightly from the sides, making the difference easier to spot as they mature.

Identifying a Female Axolotl

When caring for axolotls, I’ve noticed that female indicators are far less obvious than those of males. While the sign of sex in a male is quite easy to spot, the female traits are more subtle and typically show through a plump body and a shorter tail. However, a female cannot be confidently identified with 100% certainty until she’s around 18 months old, since even a plump, short-tailed axolotl could later turn out to be a male.

In my own tank, I once mistook a round-bodied juvenile for a young female, only to realize months later that its features became more definitive of a developing male instead.

Housing and Tank Setup for a Happy Axolotl

When I first set up an aquarium for my axolotl, I quickly learned that size truly matters. A minimum of 110 liters or 29 gallons is the absolute baseline for this fascinating species, though a larger tank—around 180 liter or 40 gallon breeder—is far more suitable.

These animals love to utilize floor space, so a longer and wider setup works better than a tall, thin one. Axolotls are bottom feeding by nature, and providing enough room for them to turn around, extend their body, and feel comfortable helps reduce stress and future health problems.

You can also use an Axolotl Tank Size Calculator to easily determine the most appropriate tank size and water volume for your pet’s specific needs.

From experience, I recommend paying attention to water volume, filtration, and bio load. This species produces a lot of waste, and keeping nitrate levels below 20 ppm through partial water changes and proper filters is vital.

I once underestimated the amount of waste my juvenile axolotl produced—it grew rapidly, and I had to upgrade the tank sooner than planned. Using adequate mechanical, biological, and chemical filtration systems, such as canister or hang-on-back filters, makes maintenance and routine care much easier.

To prevent any accidents, always keep the water level slightly below the rim. Jumping is common, especially when the water flow or surface agitation is too high. I keep a breathable lid made of egg crate or mesh reptile cover.

which not only prevents jumping but also allows fans to cool the aquarium. Avoid rusting materials that may leak into the water, and make sure all equipment is safe for aquatic living conditions.

In my years of keeping axolotls, I found that larger volumes of water help dilute nitrate, ensuring a healthy, optimal environment for long-term growth. A comfortable, still water setup, inspired by Lake Xochimilco in the valley of Mexico, allows these creatures to truly thrive.

Many stores and fish shops now have available equipment and supplies that are ideal for this pet, making it easier to develop a safe enclosure and maintain optimal performance. It’s a common mistake to go smaller first, but investing in a larger, better setup from the start will make your axolotl’s lifelong journey far more beneficial and healthy.

What not to use

What to use

Filtration and Equipment

Internal Filters

When setting up a home for your axolotl, the 20 Gallon Long tank is often a perfect start. I’ve personally used the Sicce Shark ADV 600 and later upgraded to the Sicce Shark ADV 800 for a 30-40 Gallon Breeder—both offering smooth, quiet operation.

The right filters make a huge difference, keeping the water clean without creating too much current that could stress your axolotl. For smaller tanks, I’ve found Hang-On-Back Filters like the Seachem Tidal 35 ideal, while larger setups benefit from the Seachem Tidal 55, balancing efficiency and ease of maintenance.

If you prefer more powerful systems, Canister filters such as the Sicce Whale 120 or Sicce Whale 200 provide excellent filtration for bigger tanks. For those who love a gentle, oxygen-rich flow, Sponge filters powered by an air pump and airline tubing—like the Small Hikari Bacto-Surge Biological Action Sponge Filter or Large Hikari Bacto-Surge Biological Action Sponge Filter—work wonders.

I’ve seen how the Biological Action of these sponges maintains a healthy bacterial balance, which is vital for axolotls. Each system, from the Sicce Whale to Seachem Tidal, brings its own advantages, but what matters most is matching your tank size and breeder setup to the right filtration method.

Helpful Equipment and Supplies

When I first began the care of my axolotl, I realized how essential the right supplies and tools are to keeping them healthy and comfortable. You can easily find most items online or at pet stores and aquatics shops, but it’s always smart to contact the Axolotl Planet team for guidance if you’re unsure about a substitute.

A good Water test kit, like the Freshwater Master Test Kit by API, helps monitor your water quality regularly, and a Water thermometer ensures the temperature stays stable. I also recommend using a Conditioner such as Prime by SeaChem to make tap water safe, and a Siphon for easy water changes—it saves a lot of time and effort.

For extra protection, I’ve found that adding Indian almond leaves works wonders thanks to their anti-fungal, anti-bacterial, and antioxidant properties. When dealing with minor fungal infections, a bit of Black Tea can help soothe the issue naturally.

In severe cases of fungal or bacterial infections, Methylene Blue is highly effective, while PraziPro can eliminate harmful parasites that sometimes appear in the tank. Having these items on hand not only simplifies axolotl care but also prevents small issues from turning into big problems.

Water Parameters and Temperature

Cycling Your Aquarium

When I first started keeping axolotls as aquatic pets, I quickly learned that they require a fully cycled aquarium before being added to their tank. The easiest way to ensure their safety is to refrain from purchasing your axolotl until after the aquarium is fully cycled.

This cycling process can take 4-8 weeks if done from scratch, especially without the help of already seeded filter media. Following a Cycling Guide or a step-by-step walkthrough really helps in explaining how to cycle an aquarium properly through the nitrogen cycle.

From my experience, patience pays off—once the cycle completes, your axolotls will thrive in a balanced and safe home.

Weekly Water Changes

From my experience, axolotls can be quite messy and will quickly pollute their water because of their heavy bioload. Even with a fully cycled tank, it’s important to perform weekly water changes to keep the nitrate level below 20 ppm at all times.

I’ve noticed that Ammonia spikes are common in axolotl tanks, especially when one forgets about keeping track of water parameters. Regular maintenance not only ensures stability but also keeps your tank environment healthy and balanced for these delicate creatures.

Water Conditioner

When maintaining an aquarium for axolotls, the right water conditioner must be used whenever adding new water to the tank. I always make sure that the water conditioner does not contain Aloe vera, as Aloe vera can be an irritant to axolotls.

Conditioners containing aloe may often contain words like natural, plant, herbal extract, slime coat, or stress, which sound appealing but are unsafe for amphibians. The water conditioner you choose should also not contain iodine, since iodine can be harmful to their delicate skin.

The most commonly recommended water conditioner on the market for axolotls is Seachem Prime, which is axolotl-safe and offers added benefits beyond just dechlorination—it’s my personal go-to choice for keeping their environment balanced and healthy.

Water Quality

Keeping the water parameters stable in a fully cycled aquarium is key to healthy axolotls. Your tank should always show 0 ppm ammonia, 0 ppm nitrite, and between 5 and 20 ppm nitrate at all times. The pH usually falls between 6.5 and 8.0, which is the ideal range for these amphibians.

From my own setup, I’ve found that maintaining a GH of 7-14˚ (125.3-250.6 ppm) and a KH of 3-7˚ (53.7-125.3 ppm) keeps them comfortable. Nitrate should always be kept below 20 ppm, since high levels can stress your pets. However, if you ever see 0 ppm nitrate, it indicates that the aquarium is not cycled, because animal waste is constantly emitted into the water and processed into nitrate.

A fully cycled aquarium will never have readings that low, and regular monitoring ensures your axolotls live in a safe and balanced environment.

Acclimating Your Axolotl

When I first brought my axolotl home, I quickly learned that the acclimation process is more than just letting a new pet float in a bag. To keep a healthy aquarium, you must understand the Nitrogen Cycle—the heart of your home aquarium’s ecosystem.

This biological filtration keeps ammonia, nitrite, and nitrate levels in check, ensuring the water quality stays balanced. Your tank should already have completed cycling before you introduce your animal to its new habitat.

The method you choose to acclimate your axolotl depends on how it was purchased; mine came from a location near Dallas Love Field Airport, and I made sure it hadn’t stayed in the bag for more than 24 hours before following the instructions I’d learned through experience.

Once settled, keep an eye on temperature, oxygen, and overall water balance. A smooth transition takes careful monitoring and adjustment, especially since this delicate amphibian can easily feel stress from transport or sudden environment changes.

Focus on safety, gentle adaptation, and consistent care—this is key to maintaining stable conditions. As you perfect your setup, your aquatic species will thrive in a clean, comfortable habitat, a true reflection of thoughtful pet care and love for your axolotl.

Proper Acclimation

When I first received my axolotl, I made sure to handle the animal with care during the Rapid Acclimation method. I opened the bag and gently poured the water and the axolotl into a large bowl or container for holding. From my experience, I add about ¼ cup of water from the cycled aquarium every 5 minutes for around 30 minutes, allowing the axolotl to become properly acclimated.

Once the time had been reached, I used a net to remove the axolotl and place it carefully into the aquarium—and I always remember, do not pour the old water back into the tank.

If your axolotl was shipped through mail and has been packaged for longer than 24 hours, it should be handled quickly and follow the same steps to make the process as smooth as possible for your new friend.

Rapid Acclimation

When I first brought my axolotl home, I learned the importance of being patient during Rapid Acclimation. I kept the bag holding the pet sealed and placed it into the aquarium water without opening it. After 15 minutes, the temperatures began to equalize, and I used a net to gently remove the axolotl and place it carefully in its new habitat.

I always remind others—never spill the water from the bag into the tank. Keeping the lights off for about 24 hours helps minimize stress and allows the axolotl to settle in and feel comfortable. Usually, after a day, your pet will be ready to turn on the lights and attempt to feed.

If it doesn’t eat right away, it’s most likely adjusting to the environment. If any problems persist, read the guide to determine the cause of the issue, and if it still remains unclear, don’t hesitate to contact the Axolotl Planet team—their expert members will assist you as soon as possible, offering insights gathered throughout years of experience and rest assured care.

Tank Mates

Choosing and Managing Tank Companions

From my own experience with axolotls, I’ve learned that these solitary animals prefer to live alone. They do not seek companionship, and keeping them with tank mates often causes stress or even harm. When creating their environment, it’s important to provide plenty of space and the proper amount of care to ensure their health and comfort.

A 40-Gallon Breeder tank can comfortably keep two or three adult axolotls only if the situation is managed with caution. It’s possible to successfully raise multiple axolotls together, but each must have enough space and clean aquatic conditions to stay well.

When adding anything besides other axolotls, extreme caution should be taken—or better yet, avoided completely. Some fish have a tendency to nip at the gills, legs, and tails, mistaking them for food. If the fish isn’t at least twice the size of your axolotl’s head, it can be dangerous.

Snails, clams, and mollusks might be swallowed, leading to impaction and death. Invertebrates such as shrimp or crayfish can cause harm by attacking with their claws and damaging delicate limbs. I’ve seen this happen firsthand in a small aquarium, and it’s heartbreaking. Even small shrimp, while considered the safest, should be introduced carefully.

If you decide to try tank mates, make sure to quarantine them for at least 30 days to screen for parasites and diseases before introducing them. It’s also vital to maintain a clean aquatic environment—nitrate levels can rise quickly in a shared enclosure, creating a danger for your axolotl’s health.

In the same case, it’s better to keep them alone than risk an accidental mate or eggs. Axolotls are a social species in appearance only; they feel no sense of company or loneliness when housed by themselves.

For those wanting more information, you can learn from resources like the article, Can Axolotls Have Tank Mates, or simply click here to explore deeper insights into proper cohabiting and care practices that keep your water quality best for long-term success.

Bites and Injuries

When I first started keeping Axolotls, I quickly learned how easily they can mistake each other for food, especially when housed together in the same tank. These curious creatures will often bite one another, thinking anything moving nearby might be a tasty snack.

To avoid injury, I always make sure they are fed far away from each other, giving them enough space to calm down before exploring again. Once an owner feeds them regularly, the animals begin to equate anything that moves with food, which easily results in nipping.

Feeding frequently enough helps prevent this general behavior. From my experience, if one Axolotl is larger, the size difference sometimes allows one’s head to fit inside the mouth of another, which can lead to serious harm. Keeping them fed, separated during meals, and watched closely is the best way to keep your tank peaceful.

Managing Accidental Breeding

When I first kept juvenile axolotls, I didn’t realize how high the probability was that when housed together, they might turn out to be of opposite sex. A male and female kept together can quickly breed, even if you’re not intending to.

Before you know it, you may find hundreds of accidental eggs scattered across the tank. It’s important to remember that parents with undocumented genetic history and lineages shouldn’t have their offspring raised, as this can lead to unhealthy or unpredictable genetics.

If your pets have accidentally bred, the eggs should be culled humanely by freezing to prevent the spread of harmful or unknown genes.

In my experience, the population of captive axolotls is already suffering from various genetic issues, making it imperative that only ethical breeders with tracked genetics are supported.

It should be noted that a female should be bred once every 6 months at most, as overbreeding is stressful and can make them susceptible to diseases. Keeping a watchful eye on breeding behavior helps maintain the health and balance of your aquarium community.

Diet and Feeding

From my experience, Axolotls require a balanced diet to stay healthy and active. Their nutrition depends mainly on earthworms or night crawlers, which are one of the better options because they contain over 60% protein and have a Ca:P ratio greater than 1.

These worms are also easy to find at bait shops, pet stores, or even online in bulk. For long-term convenience, I once tried starting a worm farm, and it turned out to be a beneficial investment for supplying food regularly.

When feeding, I often supplement their main diet of worms with axolotl-specific pellets. There are several available foods in pet stores, and when I was unable to find those, I used sinking carnivore pellets as an alternative. You can read articles and information in depth to learn about different food options and their nutritional value.

For adult axolotls, it’s best to feed once every 2–3 days, giving them as much as they are willing to eat per feeding. Younger ones, usually less than 8 inches, should be fed daily to ensure steady growth.

Other food options include black insects, small freshwater feeder fish, or silversides. However, these should be handled carefully. Feeder fish must be quarantined for a minimum of two weeks and given broad spectrum treatments to remove parasitic, fungal, or bacterial infections.

Feeding live foods can always carry a risk of contracting illness, so I strongly recommend non-live foods to avoid such risks altogether.

Staple and Occasional Foods

When feeding my axolotls, I’ve found that choosing the right staple foods makes a huge difference in their health and growth. For larger ones around 4 inches or more, earthworms or nightcrawlers—especially European or Canadian types—are the best options.

Blackworms work well for smaller axolotls, while frozen or thawed feeder fish like silversides, brine shrimp cubes, or Repashy grub pies add variety to their diet. These nutrient-rich options keep my pets active and ensure they digest food well without issues.

For occasional foods, I include waxworms, hornworms (with the horn removed), crickets, and bloodworms in small amounts. However, it’s important to avoid insects with tough exoskeletons such as mealworms, since they’re hard to digest.

Feed these only occasionally—about 1–2 times per month—to prevent overfeeding. If you’re unsure about a certain food option, it’s always okay to contact a specialist or consult the Axolotl Planet team for expert guidance on safe feeding practices.

Foods to Avoid

Through my experience caring for axolotls, I’ve learned that not every feeder fish is safe to use. Goldfish and minnows often contain thiaminase, an enzyme that can cause thiamine deficiency when eaten consistently.

Some other fish also tend to nip and damage gills or the slime coat, especially when they come from pet stores where they can easily spread diseases and parasites. Beyond that, many different temperature requirements make them difficult to keep housed comfortably in cold water alongside axolotls.

Similarly, insects and larvae should not be offered, as they may contain chitin, which is indigestible and fails to fulfill dietary requirements.

Behavior and Stress

From my own experience observing axolotls, I’ve noticed they generally sit around their tank during the day, showing their calm and patient nature. These opportunistic hunters often stay in the same area, waiting for prey to pass rather than actively searching.

You might even catch them walking along the bottom or occasionally swimming when relaxed. Sometimes, they appear fired up—their color turns lighter, and their gills glow red for a brief period of time due to increased blood flow.

During these moments, they may seem more active or eating, which is completely normal and nothing to be concerned about.

However, abnormal behavior can signal stress or illness. I’ve seen cases where an axolotl shows forward curled gills, swimming erratically, or even writhing from discomfort. Loss of appetite, frequent floating, or scratching at the gills with the back leg can also indicate problems. A small fold at the tip of the tail is another sign of distress.

If your pet exhibits these behaviors, it’s best to test water parameters right away, as poor water quality often triggers these symptoms. Keeping their environment clean and stable makes a world of difference for their overall health.