When I first learned how to breed axolotls, I didn’t expect raising their eggs to turn into such an exciting hobby. There’s a real part of the fun that comes from the suspense—what kinds of morphs will hatch, or if you’ll be lucky enough to spot an elusive chimera in your egg batch.
There’s just something magical about seeing a baby axolotl start off as a tiny, jelly-covered dot and slowly grow into a cute young axolotl. Today, I want to share my personal way of how I raise them—it’s totally free and open, and it’s brought me a lot of success.
People often ask, how many eggs do axolotls lay? And honestly, each female can lay hundreds in one go, so having the right method helps. I hope this helps you feel ready to begin your own adventure.
How to Raise Axolotl Eggs
Breeding axolotls turned into an exciting hobby for me, especially watching eggs grow into unique morphs. Each female lays hundreds of eggs, so a proper method really helps. Always buy from unrelated, healthy parents and plan space ahead. In the first two weeks, I use shoebox tubs, condition water with salt and colloidal silver, and keep them in the dark.
Once they hatch, baby axolotls live off their yolk for a bit before they start eating, usually starting with brine shrimp. Daily care includes water changes, checking for deformities, and separating aggressive ones as they grow legs. I move them to individual containers with filtered water flow for safety. As they get bigger, I slowly move them from live food to blackworms, bloodworms, and then pellets. By two to three months, they’re ready for new homes if well-fed and healthy.
Smart Tips Before You Buy Axolotl Eggs
When buying axolotl eggs, always make sure the parents aren’t related, because that can affect the babies’ health. I made that mistake before and it taught me a tough lesson. Also, make sure you have enough space—more axolotls will need extra time and care. It’s not always essential to know the hets, but it’s definitely ideal if you want more control over the morphs.
It’s a good idea to see photos of the parents, but keep in mind that the babies might not look exactly like them. Axolotl genetics can be really complex, and knowing their background gives you higher chances of getting the look you want.
I always try to buy from trusted, knowledgeable sellers to avoid getting scammed. Basic axolotl eggs usually cost around $0.50 each, but rare types can sometimes sell for $2 or more.
Caring for Axolotl Eggs in the First 2 Weeks
During the first 2 to 3 weeks, I gently place about 25 fertile axolotl eggs in each shoebox-sized container, making sure they don’t touch so they have enough room. When the embryos start to form (what I call “beaning”), I move them into clean, conditioned water with around 400 TDS, add a pinch of Himalayan salt, and just one drop of colloidal silver to help stop fungus.
This part is pretty simple, but still important. I always keep the containers in a dark space because the eggs don’t need much light while they’re developing. As they grow, you’ll see them twitch, turn, and if you look closely, their little gills start forming—which is honestly so cute to watch. This tip helps ensure proper oxygen flow and keeps your hatchlings healthy.
Handling Hatchlings in the Second 2 Weeks
In the following two weeks, be gentle if you need to remove empty egg cases—doing it roughly can tear the membrane and make a baby hatch too early. If that happens, don’t worry. Just leave it alone and let the rest hatch naturally. Many will be fine on their own.
Sometimes, newly hatched babies may lay on their sides and seem lifeless, but they usually start swimming after a bit. A few might show deformities like curved spines or odd-shaped heads, and unfortunately, those need to be separated. It’s also normal for some to die without a clear reason—just keep an eye out if it starts happening often.
Hatching & Feeding Time
When the baby axolotl hatches, it doesn’t need to feed right away. It lives off its yolk sack for a few days, giving you a short break before the real work begins. Once those eggs start opening, your hatchery setup needs to be ready. Brine shrimp are the top choice for feeding baby axolotls right after they hatch.
Their tiny movements actually attract the babies and trigger their instinct to grab. You’ll need to feed them daily, and they should eat until their tummy looks pink and full. I became their full-time buffet for nearly two months, watching over the babies for several hours a day.
Be careful not to overfeed though—extra shrimp can foul the water, and once the shrimp die, they start dying fast and can cause fungus if uneaten.
My method is simple. I use a clean container filled with warm, salty water made from 3/4C of water and 1/4 tsp Himalayan pink salt. You can try other types of salt, but I’ve found this one works best. Warm the water to about 80°F, mix in the salt until it’s fully dissolved, then gently sprinkle the brine shrimp eggs on top.
A slightly warm spot—like near a laptop charger or under an aquarium light (not too hot)—can help the eggs hatch faster. After 24 to 48 hours, shine a light on one side of the container to gather the shrimp, then collect them with a pipette or dropper and strain through a coffee filter or shrimp net. I always keep two batches going on a rotating schedule so there’s always shrimp ready when I need them.
Maintenance Tips
I usually vacuum the tank to clear waste, but I’m always careful not to suck up the babies, especially when they’re still tiny. I aim for 25-50% water changes, either daily or every other day, especially in their shoe box setup to remove any poop or uneaten brine shrimp.
A turkey baster is super helpful to transport them when they’re small, but I avoid moving them unless necessary since they’re really fragile and can hurt easily. I always keep an eye on water quality—I test for ammonia and nitrite and do a water change when needed.
Baby axolotls actually handle warmer water better than adults, and they mature much faster in around 70F. Adding a cleaning crew like cherry shrimp and ramshorn snails also helps keep the tank tidy and supports their early development.
1 Month Mark Progress
By now, the babies are really growing and starting to look very axolotlish. Around 2 to 3 weeks, you’ll see their front legs start as small, cloudy-looking bumps. By 4 to 6 weeks, their back legs begin to grow and take shape into full limbs. It’s amazing to see their tiny legs develop so quickly.
Separation Tips That Worked for Me
Once the babies start developing their front legs, you need to give them more space or they’ll begin nipping at each other’s gills and legs. These tiny creatures can be aggressive! I usually reduce the numbers to about 10 per shoebox.
By the time they grow back legs, most have already outgrown the original container. Even with good spacing and twice daily feeding, biting can still be a problem. My personal method is to separate them individually, something I tailored from a betta fish breeder who raised axolotls in a similar way.
I use individual plastic containers with holes on the sides to allow proper circulation. I make these holes using a hot knife. This setup shares one filter system, giving them clean water while still keeping the babies safe from bigger, hungry ones. I add a small plant in each cup to keep the water cleaner and give them a place to hide or cling.
Using an eyedropper or turkey baster, I remove solid waste from the bottom of each cup as needed. The cups must be tall enough to reach above the tank or they may jump into nearby cups. I make sure they stick out about 1/4″ above the water surface. Some people just give more space and feed heavy with live foods, so it’s really about what works for you.
Feeding as They Grow
Once the babies are big enough to eat solid food, I start offering them chopped blackworms in small containers so they can forage throughout the day. They begin to grow rapidly and develop big gills, especially when fed high-protein food like blackworms.
Over time, I switch to frozen bloodworms, which are more convenient, and later introduce crushed salmon pellets or finely chopped earthworms. Some people even manage to successfully move them to adult frozen brine shrimp, but I’ve noticed blackworms lead to faster growth in my experience.
After Two Months
By now, your axolotls are getting bigger, and it’s smart to start planning in advance for their new homes. Most babies are ready around 3 months, especially when they have both front legs and back legs, and are eating easy to feed foods like pellets.
Conclusion
Raising axolotl eggs has taught me more than I ever imagined—not just about care routines, but about patience, planning, and the joy of watching life grow from something so small. From setting up your first hatchery and learning how to feed wriggly little babies, to managing their space and behavior as they grow, every step is a mix of challenge and reward.
If there’s one thing I’ve learned, it’s that no two batches are ever the same, and part of the fun is adjusting along the way. Whether you’re in it for the love of morphs, or just the experience, I hope this guide helps you avoid the mistakes I made early on and gives you the confidence to raise strong, happy axolotls of your own.
FAQS
What to feed axolotl eggs?
When my axolotl eggs finally hatch, I always make sure I’m ready with the right first food. One of the easiest and most nutritious options is young daphnia, especially if you’re into culturing them yourself—it’s practically free! Even though newly-hatched brineshrimp are smaller, daphnia are just about two and a half times their size, which makes them a good fit for baby larvae. The key is avoiding danger by keeping the water clean and making sure everything you feed is alive and moving, because that’s what gets the babies to eat.
How long do axolotl eggs take to grow?
When my fertile axolotl eggs start to develop, I look closely to see if they bean, which shows the embryo is alive and growing. From there, it usually takes about 14–21 days for hatching, but that time can change depending on the temperature. I’ve noticed that warmer water speeds things up, but too much heat can hurt them, so keeping an eye on the tank is an important part of the process. This might sound like a lot, but honestly, this is the easy part once you understand what to look for before they hatch.
How to keep axolotl babies alive?
I always use a tub rather than a tank because the babies are too small and fragile. They need 100% water changes everyday to stay healthy, and I make sure to feed them in the morning and evening. While feeding, I watch closely until the thickest part of their body becomes the same width as their head—that’s my signal they’ve eaten enough. It’s not exact, just an average, but it works.
